Tokyo Tsure Zure Gusa

The Canon Wordtank V330 was released on January 20th around the same time that Casio put out more than 10 new models. The third generation in the V300 line, you wouldn’t think there’d be much to get excited about in the V330. But you would be wrong.

The biggest change from V320 released last year is the inclusion of the massive Eijiro database. On Canon’s website they advertise this as now containing 1.7 million entries. If you’re not familiar, Eijiro is a popular Japanese database used by professional translators and students alike. Space ALC has a free portal that lets you access the Eijiro database on the web. Give it a try. So while Eijiro is available free online, this has never before been available in an electronic dictionary. (Eijiro is available for sale in CD form in Japan for offline use on a PC.)

The downside of Eijiro is that a lot of the content is user-generated. This means that from time to time a definition will contain inappropriate slang or just sound a little off. But the sheer amount of suggestions you’ll find for a single word or phrase is amazing. Just go now to www.alc.co.jp and look up ひどい or すごい for example. It really is an amazing database of content. Or for a laugh, look up お父さん (Dad) and read through some of the example sentences.

The other main improvement of the V330 over the V320 is the inclusion of the fantastic and long popular Reader’s and Reader’s Plus English to Japanese dictionaries. These are in addition to the Wisdom Japanese to English and English to Japanese dictionaries that were also included in the Wordtank V320.

So, what’s good in the new Canon Wordtank V330:

If you’re not in Japan, you can get it at Smart Imports.

This last Monday Casio released its 2010 line of Japanese dictionaries, and next Monday the foreign language models will come out. All of the 2010 Japanese electronic dictionaries feature an improved color TFT touch screen as well as a number of new features. Later this week I’ll write an in depth review of the flagship model, the XD-A10000 that will include a discussion of features common to the entire line. For now I’d like to just mention all of the new models by name with a brief description:

XD-A10000: The professional model, replaces the XD-GF10000. Includes the Kenkyusha 5th edition Japanese to English dictionary as well as the pair of million entry translator’s references. Improved audio content is also included so roughly 70,000 Japanese words have audio pronunciation, and some Japanese classical poems and works of literature included also have recorded readings by a native speaker. Several Oxford English dictionaries and thesauruses are also included.

XD-A9800: “University student model.” Replaces the XD-GF9800. Almost as impressive as the XD-A10000. Compared to the A10000 it lacks the Random House English to Japanese Dictionary, several English dictionaries and some Japanese content. But it still has the prized Kenkyusha Japanese to English dictionary, the pair of Reader’s English to Japanese dictionaries, and the two million entry translator’s references. Also includes audio for about 70,000 Japanese words in the Meikyo and NHK accent guide, though it lacks the poems and works of literature. For about $110 less than the XD-A10000, this may become the most popular one.

XD-A3800: “Junior High School model.” Available in various colors. Limited English/Japanese texts.

XD-A4800: “High School model.” Available in various colors. Limited English/Japanese texts.

XD-A8500: “Business model.” Available in various colors. Again, lacks much in the way of English/Japanese texts.

XD-A6800: “Hobby model.” As above.

XD-A6500: “Lifestyle, General use.” As above.

The foreign language models listed below have almost the exact same dictionaries included as the 2009 lineup, so the only difference will be in the improved screen, navigation, and other features common to all of the XD-A series. (This year the 2009 models seem to be quickly selling out, so in the next month or two the XD-GF and XD-SF series are likely to be completely unavailable.)

XD-A7100: German model. Replaces the XD-GF7150.

XD-A7200: French model. Replaces the XD-GF7250.

XD-A7300: Chinese model. Replaces the XD-GF7350.

XD-A7400: Italian model. Replaces the XD-SF7400.

XD-A7500: Spanish model. Replaces the XD-SF7500.

XD-A7600: Korean model. Replaces the XD-SF7600.

XD-A7700: Russian model. Replaces the XD-SF7700.

A couple of medical dictionaries are also scheduled to be announced in the next couple of months, but since the included medical texts are Japanese, they seldom inspire much interest among the Japanese-learning community.

An in-depth look at the XD-A10000 as well as all the improvements in the XD-A series will follow in the next week.

Casio released their new line-up of 2009 models at the end of last February. They replace their electronic dictionaries every year, so this is no surprise. While there are no major differences between the 2008 and 2009 models, we’ll take a look at their new line-up.

All of the new 2009 Casio models include the following new features:

• A slightly larger screen with a sidebar "quick palette" allowing convenient access to the menu, jump, sound, return/list, enter, and page up/down keys.
• The screen automatically rotates 90 or 180 degrees based on the dictionary’s orientation allowing for Japanese text to be read vertically more comfortably and giving you the ability to show someone across from you the entry you were looking at.
• True multi-dictionary search from a single screen – this works with English Romaji characters and can be done with multiple words to search through example sentences.With Japanese the multi-dictionary search works with handwritten kanji input or hiragana typed in through the keyobard. Japanese example sentences can also be searched.

English and "general" (総合) models.

Casio XD-GF10000: The XD-GF10000 is the apparent flagship model. It contains all of the great dictionaries from the enormously popular XD-GP9700 (such as the Kenkyusha 5th Ed. Japanese to English, the Random Hosue English to Japanese, and a pair of million entry technical term translators’ references). It improves on this by replacing the Digital Daijisen with the 6th Edition Kojien Japanese dictionary and replacing the old Kanjigen dictionary with the Shin-Kangorin. The Kangorin includes stroke order diagrams for all 1,945 common use kanji. The Nihonkokugo Daijiten Japanese dictionary complements the Kojien with a whopping 300,000 entries. Two other Japanese text additions are a proverb and four-kanji compound dictionary. It also adds the Longman English dictionary to the Oxford texts.

Casio XD-GF6900: Replaces the XD-GP6900. Lacks the Kenkyusha, Random House, and Reader’s dictionaries. The Progressive Japanese to English is good, as is the Genius English to Japanese, but there’s no reason for a foreign student of Japanese to pick this one out of the bunch.

Casio XD-SF6200: Available in seven colors for some reason. (Most Casio models only come in one.) Similar to the XD-GF6900 in terms of Japanese/English content. Nothing noteworthy.

"Foreign Language Models"

XD-GF9800: The true successor of the XD-GP9700. Very similar to the more expensive XD-GF10000, except that it lacks the Oxford Modern American Dictionary, Longman (English) Dictionary, and replaces the Kojien with the Digital Daijisen. But given that it’s significantly cheaper than the XD-GF10000, it seems like a better value. (This one is my favorite out of the bunch.)

XD-GF7350 and XD-SF7300: Chinese dictionaries, the former focusing more on classical Chinese and the latter more on modern Mandarin.

XD-GF7150: German model. Replaces the XD-GP7150.

XD-GF7250: French model. Replaces the XD-GP7250.

XD-SF7400: Italian model. Replaces the XD-SP7400.

XD-SF7500: Spanish model. Replaces the XD-SP7500.

XD-SF7600: Korean model. Replaces the XD-SP7600.

XD-SF7700: Russian model. Casio’s first Russian model!

Conclusion:

While the new functions are nice and the XD-GF10000 and XD-GF9800 do supercede their predecessors, there is nothing to get really excited about (like there was with the initial release of the XD-GW9600 in 2007.) The 2008 models still hold their own, and are currently much cheaper than these new releases. Casio has stopped producing last years’ models though, so in the next year they’ll sell out and the price will come down a bit on these new ones. No rush.

Japan, like everywhere else, often seems to be gradually losing local flavor as large corporations fill the streets with carbon copy restaurants and shops. Izakaya, Japanese restaurant/bars, are a particularly good example of this. It’s a little sad that an izakaya in Tokyo is basically the same as one in Iwate or Kyushu. Of course in Japan there are still plenty of local alternatives to corporate chains, but a lot of these can be intimidating for newcomers or downright unwelcoming to the uninvited. In Japanese a restaurant that is ichigensan okotowari, （一見さんお断り） basically denies entry to unintroduced new customers, as ridiculous as that sounds. So though there is definitely a lot of interest among young people in more traditional izakaya, many of these places are intimidating, especially to women.

So when I was walking down OK Yokocho （OK横丁）in Akabane with my family last night I was pleasantly surprised to see a new non-corporate izakaya having its grand opening.

A loft with a tatami-mat floor and individual irori hearths for table-cooking overlooks the central bar below. It was early when we got there and we were taken upstairs to a private room with its own irori. This was the first time I can remember having been to an izakaya with an irori. Basically hot coals were placed in a hearth in the center of the table over which we cooked our food. There was also a hook hanging from the ceiling for cooking nabe, but we didn’t order anything that used that. One of the specialties was a ginger/miso paste mixed with a bit of ground chicken. Besides the great atmosphere and delicious food, what really struck me about the place was how inviting it was. Despite being non-corporate, the staff was young, mostly in their early 30s, and the owner himself (whom we met) was just 36. We’ve been to some local izakaya where we were made to feel unwelcome for not knowing the proper specialty dish to order, or simply not ringing up enough of a bill, but all of that was absent here. I’d even recommend it to people who can’t read Japanese, as I’m sure the kind staff would use their perhaps limited English to help.

Chirori （ちろり） is a quick walk from Akabane station. Take the north exit and turn right (East) after the ticket gate. Turn left after exiting the station, walk past the bus area, and cross the street toward Ichiban-gai (一番街). Take the first left on Ichiban-gai into OK Yokocho. Chirori is on the left.

My first issue of Lapham’s Quarterly arrived today – the second volume by Lewis Lapham of Harper’s (the only other magazine to which I subscribe). The New Republic sums up the essence of the publication:

Lapham’s zeal to combat the creeping debasement of truth in the culture, combined with his passion for history, drove him to leave Harper’s after nearly thirty years and found Lapham’s Quarterly. The Quarterly is billed as a historical journal and looks something like The Paris Review. Each issue, Lapham chooses a single theme–it premiered with “war” in November, “money” follows in March, and “nature” is slotted for the summer–and assembles a set of relevant texts. The material is wonderfully eclectic: Not just the stuff of history books, but pop-culture lists, CIA assassination manuals, and vintage memorandums proposing, for instance, a way to demoralize the Cuban people by spreading unflattering photos of an overweight Fidel Castro. This scrapbook of “literary narrative and philosophical commentary, diaries, speeches, letters, and proclamations” as Lapham describes it in his preamble, is essentially a 172-page expansion of the Harper’s Readings section, itself a Lapham innovation from the start of his second term as editor in 1984. There’s also some new content: four essays in the back by contemporary historians, each about 2,000 to 3,000 words long. But for all those essays, the journal’s clearest message is this: Its editor’s interest, and his genius, lies not in editing, but in curating.

The full article is here.

What struck me first upon opening it was the complete lack of advertising. It’s a tome of a magazine at 221 pages of mostly text. This issue is “About Money.” I’m just a couple of articles in, but I’m already convinced that it’s very worth picking up.

The Classic Cafe of Nakano was reborn last November as Renaissance in Koenji. I was rather down when I heard that my favorite cafe in Tokyo had closed down with the death of the elderly proprietress, but some of the staff have resurrected the Classic in all its charm.

The new location is smaller than the original, housed in the basement of an unassuming office building, but stepping inside you immediately recognize the dim lighting and old decor. (The two photos above were taken with 1 second exposures, showing the room much more clearly than can be seen with the naked eye – it really is dark in there.) There have been a few changes; the tables and chairs were fixed and no longer rock when you shift your weight, and the classical music blared out of the speakers isn’t as scratchy-sounding as before. But the essential system remains the same – pay 400 yen to get in, receive your choice of coffee, tea, or painfully sweet orange drink, bring any food with you that you’d like, and request classical songs on the little chalkboard. (Coffee refills are 200 yen.)

It can be a little tricky to find the first time. Take the south exit of Koenji station and walk right along the tracks briefly until you get to the covered mall. Turn left and walk away from the tracks down the covered mall. Walk through the covered mall until you emerge onto an uncovered shopping street. It’s the first left after you cross into the open air street. (It’s one block before the post office sign on the right.) It’s "B" on this map.

The Classic, and now Renaissance, are called Meikyoku Kissa (名曲喫茶) in Japanese. They appeared mostly in postwar Japan around the 1950s, when record players were too expensive for most people to own. In the 1960s a foreign magazine featured one of these Meikyoku Kissa, describing them as a Japanese Greenwich Village, where young artists and bohemians hung out. They quickly became popular destinations for foreign backpackers, which created a striking image in this era when Westerners were still relatively rare in Tokyo. After that these cafes became locust points for local counterculture rather than classical music (though of course the music remains). While mainly frequented by scholars, artists, left wing activists, hippies, and the like, they became popular even as date spots for couples.

Most Meikyoku Kissa disappeared after record players became cheaply available, but a few famous spots have endured. Some of the things I always liked about the old Classic was near-complete darkness, the unfailingly twisted and generally incomprehensible art displayed on the walls (painted by the original owner), and the forlorn-looking goth artist women that served coffee with uniformly blank expressions. The smaller size gives less room for paintings at Renaissance, but they’ve successfully transplanted the atmosphere to the new place.

Makeshift dwellings coated in blue tarp are a common sight to Tokyo residents. Perhaps the most famous areas are along the Sumida River upstream of Asakusa and in Ueno park, but they are common enough in parks, under bridges, and along the many rivers that flow through Tokyo. A few days ago I was bicycling with my wife and son along a small dirt path next to the Arakawa River when we passed some rather elaborate blue tarp houses. (A side note – why do we say Sumida River and Arakawa River instead of using either Sumida and Ara or Sumidagawa and Arakawa? I live near the Arakawa, so I always want to say Sumidagawa River in English but it appears to be wrong…)

This afternoon I was left to my own ends so I headed back out to the river and tramped around on foot to get a better look at some of these houses. Several of them had TV antennas, washing machines, and other appliances powered by diesel generators.

When I walked past the above cluster of houses I saw a middle-aged man practicing his golf swing in the front "yard." I walked around to the front and approached. I greeted the man just as a large dog came around the corner of the house and started barking at me and growling. The man quieted the dog down a bit and told me he didn’t bite. Unconvinced, I smiled and approached cautiously.

I told the man, let’s call him Shiroishi-san, that I was impressed with the houses here and asked him how many people lived there. Shiroishi-san was very friendly and told me that three people lived there: a couple of former employees from bankrupt printing companies (there are a lot of them around Itabashi-ku) and an ex-carpenter. It turned out that he didn’t live there, but was waiting for one of the residents to return. Shiroishi-san lived in a nearby apartment and visited frequently. I mentioned I was surprised to see TV antennas and washing machines. Shiroishi-san told me that recently they didn’t have enough money to buy fuel for the generator, so they couldn’t use them. When they can’t find day labor, they make money collecting cans, a large bag of which can bring in about 1200 yen.

He told me that just in the last couple years there was a growing sense of community among the riverside squatters. He listed off the names and former occupations of the people living in the houses on either side, which included an elderly woman. I learned that last year a couple of people had died in their homes here just 20 meters further down the river, though only in their late 50s. (When I walked past the area later I saw several vases with flowers over an empty plot of land where a shack must have been.)

The above photo shows the view from the riverside looking back at Tokyo across a baseball field.

Shiroishi-san told me that a number of people would be getting together the next day to fish for eels in the river and fry them up. I guess local residents, both squatters and apartment-dwellers get together most Sundays at a spot near there to catch fish, eel, and shrimp. He said a Pakistani man who married a Japanese woman usually come as well and encouraged me to come. Tomorrow is the Arakawa Shimin Marathon, and the starting point is right near this location. The whole area will be full of food stands and beer vendors. Should be a very festive environment. I’ve never fished for eel before.

As I was on my way to use the ATM at the post office this morning the superintendent of our apartment building pulled me aside, saying that there had been a fire in the little indoor bicycle room. The bicycle that sits to the right of mine was always covered with a nylon-looking bag to protect it from accumulating the grime that everything in Tokyo gets coated in after about 24 hours exposure. Someone had lit this bag on fire, not only severely burning that bike, but melting my bike’s right pedal completely off! The floor was stained by puddles of melted plastic and the room smelled awful. The superintendent asked me when I had last used the bicycle, as they were unsure if this had happened the night before or two nights ago. (He only comes in a couple times a week.) I hadn’t ridden that bicycle in a few days (we have two), but was pretty sure that someone would have noticed it before then had it been done more than 18 hours ago.

When I got back from the post office there was a fire truck parked outside (despite the fact that there was no smoke and the unfortunate bicycles weren’t even hot anymore), four firefighters, and TEN police officers, including two plainclothes detectives. I went straight up to our apartment and soon we were called on the intercom to go down and get our damage report (for insurance purposes). My wife talked to the police, repeating what I had told the superintendent about our last bike ride, and got the damage report for our insurance. She said that except for the one cop doing the talking, the rest were just standing around watching.

This reminded me of an incident about five years ago when I visited Suruga Bank in Ginza, a Western Union office. A foreign man got upset at a teller for some reason and started yelling. He was not at all violent, just pissed and giving her a piece of his mind. He was out of line, but not dangerous. In a couple minutes, 14 police officers showed up including a couple detectives in trench coats. All for one guy who didn’t seem like much of a threat to anyone, and put up no physical resistance to the police, though he did verbally defend himself, saying he had done nothing wrong.

A friend of mine from South America has been hassled numerous times by the police, and he too has told me that he is often surrounded by 10 or more cops, most of whom just stand around. I don’t know if this overkill is limited to Tokyo or the operating procedure throughout Japan. My first assumption would be that it shows what a safe place Tokyo is. There must not be many crimes to pursue or they’d be stretched thinner, right? Well, Tokyo is a very safe city, but I don’t think this is necessarily the reason.

They do the same with fire trucks and firefighters. Last year there was a small kitchen fire in the apartment building across the street from us. It was limited to one unit and only smoke was visible from outside. I watched as 12 fire engines and dozens of firefighters converged on the scene. They took over the entire city block and all the streets around it. I guess that’s great. It’s a real contrast to the way it was in my hometown. My father was a City of Madison Firefighter, and there it was three guys to a rig. He said it should have been four or five guys, and budgets were keeping it at three. This increased their risk of injury, but they go the job done.

Can anyone tell me if this massing of civil servants occurs in other areas of Japan as well?